Tuesday, 10 May 2016

Karumba to Undara Lava Tubes

30 April 2016 - Karumba to Cobbold Gorge

Our two nights in Karumba were very enjoyable although there was not a lot to do for us as we didn't have a tinny, didn't fish and didn't know how to talk about fish. We did eat some lovely wild barramundi which we caught on a Visa lure and the Gulf prawns were great. The temperatures were hot - 36 degrees during the day and 26 degrees overnight (that temperature occurred at 6am in the morning - it was 30 degrees at bedtime).  Dinners, and sunsets, at the Sunset Bar were the highlight of each day.  
Brolgas and other water birds beside the road.

Looking for  train buffs
Heading back towards Normanton we again passed lots of birdlife in the lagoons beside the road. We counted 14 brolgas in five kilometres. After refuelling in Normanton we turned east for the first time this trip along the Savannah Way. Morning tea was held in a rest stop beside the Normanton to Croydon rail line - a train buffs delight as the Gulflander runs once a week between the two towns packed to the gunwales with buffs. Again brolgas were seen, this time on the road.
Brolgas on the road

Just before Georgetown is the well known free camp of Cumberland Chimney, an old gold mine. The chimney stack rises majestically out of the flat plainlands and the old dam supports a myriad of birds.
Cumberland Chimney dam

The place has been closed for upgrades and when we arrived the bird lookouts and sheds had just been completed with the toilet block all but finished. This beautiful spot was ours alone for lunch.

Cumberland Chimney
We spent the night in Georgetown and the following is a list of the highlights of this little village:-

Next morning we headed 90 klm south to Cobbold Gorge. About half way there is the even smaller town of Forsayth which has a nice little van park as well as a pleasant rest stop. Morning tea was enjoyed here. The dirt road into Cobbold Gorge was in good condition but was extremely dusty. We took it slowly so we could enjoy the scenery, cross the deep washouts without damage and miss the cattle that just have to feed their calves in the middle of the road.
Drink stop - Road to Cobbold Gorge


Entrance to Cobbold Gorge Resort
At the end of the long dusty road is the oasis of Cobbold Gorge. We checked in, chose our site (No 2), booked the gorge tour for the next day and settled in for the afternoon. Our quiet little campground was soon transformed into a busy place by the Children's Variety Bash(ers). We supported their cause by buying raffle tickets without any luck.







Cobbold Gorge campsite

Freshie  in the Gorge
Next day we went for an early morning walk then came back for the Gorge tour. After getting into a 4WD bus we were taken several kilometres to the Gorge. A two hour walk in the blazing sun and 35 degree heat is designed to make you appreciate without question the 700 metre boat trip along the spectacular Gorge at the end. The walk took us to the top of the Gorge where we looked down at a freshwater croc in the green waters below. By the time we travelled in the little boat to where he had been he was long gone. 



Boat ride in Cobbold Gorge




















The Gorge is so narrow that the boat cannot turn around so it has a 12v electric motor at each end. It is beautiful and is definitely worth the visit if travelling this way. The restaurant and bar overlook a stunning infinity pool that has views over the dam and the savannah landscape of the property.
Infinity pool at Cobbold Gorge
Undara campsite

Leaving Cobbold Gorge we travelled further east to another of my Bucket List items in Australia, the Undara Lava Tubes. We booked ahead and were allocated a great site (724). With power, water and unrestricted views of the savannah forest we settled in for three days. Dinner tonight was held in the restaurant, a magnificent building designed to look like a train station.
Undara Resort restaurant 

When Queensland Rail decided to sell all their old style maroon wooden carriages, the Undara owners bought a stack of them and arranged several around the edge of the restaurant while the remainder were turned into rail-themed accommodation. The effect is great.
Train carriages make up the bar and restaurant - I'm at the bar

According to the staff we spoke to, for the last four weeks the Resort has been booked out. They have been turning many people away. The restaurant has been feeding 160+ a night. Tonight we were two of only six diners for the whole evening - just the way we like it.

On rim of Kalkani volcano - dark green line is a collapsed lave tube
A bit about Undara and how the tubes were formed: the area has 76 extinct volcanoes. The earlier ones erupted leaving layers of basalt rock that gradually sloped to the north and north-west for over 160 klm. Undara volcano erupted later and oozed lava like boiling milk coming out of a pot. The lava cooled on top to create a hard rock crust. At the same time the flowing lava under the crust melted the basalt rock below and ran deeper and deeper into it as it flowed away from Undara. When the lava stopped flowing the tubes were created with the floor being the top of the cooled lava. The tubes run for 160 klm, the longest larva tube system in the world.

On rim of Kalkani volcano

Our first day here we climbed Kalkani volcano which was one of the ones that created the basalt layer. We walked the full rim of the volcano which provided views over the plainlands below and into the extinct core of the now dormant volcano. Collapsed lava tubes could be easily seen in the distant plains below because of the greener original vegetation in them. Later that day we walked to the Bluff that overlooks the Resort below. 

Entering the lava tubes
Next day we lined up for the Active Explorer lava tube tour. A bus ride out into the National Park took us to the opening of one of the tubes. With torches and headlamps we descended into the dark tube, then into a second tube that flowed in to the first one, then into the opening of a third that had been closed off since becoming unstable as a result of Cyclone Yasi a few years ago. What a great experience it was. 

Inside the tubes

Two tubes joined here

Cooled lava above forming roof with river of cooled lava creating floor

Entering and exiting the tubes

So that ends this part of our trip. Just 100 klm east of us is the Atherton Tableland. A completely different environment filled with waterfalls, rainforests and cool weather. This is where we will heading tomorrow.

All is going well with the car, van and humans.

Bye for now.

Jeff and Julie