Undara Lava Tubes to Townsville

5 May 2016 

Our time at Undara Lava Tubes was great,another bucket list item crossed off for me. 

Love this photo inside one of Undara's Lava Tubes

We packed up, stopped in at Innot Hot Springs for morning tea where if you put your foot in it it is hot and you spring back - hence the name I guess.

Innot Hot Springs

With a blistered foot we continued heading east towards Ravenshoe (pronounced Ravens-hoe, not Raven-shoe) and within 100 klms the dusty, dry and hot savannah was quickly left behind as we climbed the back of the Great Dividing Range to around 1000 metres. Semi-rainforest and wonderful cool weather greeted us, as did the camp hosts at the Ravenshoe Heritage Railway Campground. Daniel and Wendy volunteer as camp hosts at this small but very tidy van park. We were allocated our site and set up quickly as we started the long process of getting all the red dust out of the car and van courtesy of the last month of dusty dirt roads and tracks. 

Contrasting roads compared to a couple of days ago

Daniel made sure we knew we were invited to and were all but expected to attend Happy Hour at the camp kitchen/fire pit from around 4:30 that afternoon. We couldn't really not go as we were camped literally right beside it. Us, like everyone else in the park, strolled over to the fire pit, like dairy cows to a milking shed, when the allotted time came. Dan had the fire alight, a beer in hand and was preparing his famous (in Ravenshoe) damper for everyone. We all sat around and chatted as the damper cooked. What a great night was had with the damper being a highlight. For the first time in a month it was cool enough to enjoy a fire and not too cold not to enjoy a beer. 

Millstream Falls

WWII Military Base

Next day we headed off to see the local waterfalls and Tully Gorge. Waterfalls were to become a theme for the next week given the region we are in. Lookouts filled the gap when waterfalls weren't available. 

Clearing the road to Tully Gorge

Tully Gorge

Little Millstream Falls

The second night in Ravenshoe Van Park we again sat around the camp fire and this time Dan made golden syrup dumplings. So many people were attending that he asked to borrow our two camp ovens to add to his 90 year old one handed down to him from his grandfather. I helped with the fire and the cooking as well. The dumplings were unbelievably good. Dan and Wendy pay for the dampers and dumplings themselves while they are volunteering (for free) to manage the Van Park. Lovely young people. We scored the leftover dumplings as well because I helped - yeah!

Little Millstream Falls choked with a carpet of weed

Next day was Mothers Day so Dan talked to everyone in the park and it was decided that a bacon-and-egg breakfast was in order. Again I helped Dan as there were about 20-30 people for breakfast. There was toast to cook, tomatoes, mushrooms, eggs and piles of bacon on the BBQ. It went off well.

Strangler vine

D Cup Tree

Milla Milla Lookout

Milla Milla Falls

Ellinjaa Falls

We continued to spend our days visiting more waterfalls, walking around water-filled volcanic craters and visiting the odd cheese factory.

Milking time

The region is so lush and green - a complete contrast to the preceding four weeks.

Herberton Mining Centre

8 May 2016 - Moving Day. Having had our fill of damper and dumplings over the last few days, we headed off to Lake Tinaroo. On the way we called into the historic mining town of Herberton. They have a great Information Centre here located right in the middle of the old tin mining area. We did one of the self-guided walks that took us to abandoned mine shafts and buildings.

Old mine shaft

Mine tailings

Travelling the back roads, which we like to do, we arrived in Yungaburra Van Park right on the banks of Lake Tinaroo in the Atherton Tablelands. There is some demolishing of an old building going on in the park so we were unable to get a site with views over the dam.

Afghanistan Avenue of Honour - Lake Tinaroo

Hiding from Platypus

Curtain Fig Tree

Curtain Fig Tree wild animals!

For the next few days we explored the region visiting the spectacular Curtain Fig Tree with its own wild roosters, Lake Eacham volcanic lake with its numerous strangler vines and then to Malanda Falls. We came across Hastie's Swamp and its two story bird hide. The hide worked really well as not a single bird saw us. A 5 klm walk around Lake Barrine was beautiful as was the brunch we had in the cafe overlooking the flooded volcanic core. 

Lake Eacham, Crater Lake NP

Lake Eacham strangler vine

Hasties Swamp Bird Hide (upper level)

 Some of the birds seen from Hasties Swamp Bird Hide

Lake Barrine walk, Crater Lake NP

Lake Barrine walk, Crater Lake NP

Brunch at Lake Barrine Cafe

Next we visited the Cathedral Fig Tree which is just enormous and a little eerie.

Cathedral Fig Tree

Cathedral Fig canopy

We planned to circumnavigate Lake Tinaroo but were thwarted by bridge work three quarters of the way along a narrow dirt track. We did continue along the narrow track to the Two Chimneys which to our surprise were two old chimneys in a paddock - just fascinating.

Two Chimneys

Automatic gate opener

Still with the goal of circumnavigating Lake Tinaroo, we turned around and headed towards the other side of the lake. On the way we spied a sign pointing to Gillies Lookout. A narrow 4WD track took us high up through lush dairy farms and into a National Park. The views were spectacular to say the least. We continued around the lake to eventually all-but circumnavigate the Lake. The Lake Tinaroo Spillway was putting on a show for us by letting out water. 

Gillies Lookout

We explored the great bush camps along the lake and chose our sites for the coming days. Returning home we started to book site No 11 in Platypus Camp through the Queensland Governments National Park Book-a-Site-if-you-have-3 degrees-in-IT and Have 4 Hours Up Your Sleeve Website. We (I) got so fed up that we (I) gave up trying to book as the campsites have recently been declared tents only and we couldn't work out a way around this with our van. There were many caravans camped in there - must be the IT Crowd.

Lake Tinaroo Spillway

11 May 2016 - Moving Day. Towards the coast we headed after a great three days around Lake Tinaroo and the Atherton Tableland. The steep and windy drive down the range tested the car and van's brakes and my nerves.

Our destination in the distance

Our camp for the next three days is Wonga Beach, a small council park right on the water just north of Mossman. We were allocated a site only 15 metres off the beach. With shrubs and palm trees between us and the beach we only had glimpses of the beach but these shrubs and palms that ruined our view ended up being our saviour. On the day we arrived 60-70 klm winds blew up for three days. The winds hit the trees and went right over the top of us. We could keep our awning up the whole time which allowed us to sit outside even when the showers came though. At night the wind roared through the trees and the waves crashed on the beach.  

Our camp at Wonga Beach - chairs ready for happy hour

This was another van park with Happy Hours, which again happened to be right across from our van site, encouraged by the park managers.  We almost never (a) are aware of, or (b) participate in Happy Hours, so to have had two very enjoyable experiences within one week was quite unusual.  We met some interesting people many of whom come here every year for months on end. At this park, it's usually held right on the beach however the wind required it to be moved.

A walk on the beach out front was (a) uncomfortable due to the weather, and (b) risky due to three crocs sighted on the beach 50 metres from our van - a 3.5 metre and two juveniles. We chose option (c) not to walk along the beach. Update: two weeks later a lady was taken by a croc twenty kilometres north of us.

Mossman Gorge

A visit to Mossman Gorge just down the road was our first target while at Wonga Beach. I was a little disappointed I have to say. It is not really that special. It's free to go through it but it costs nearly $10 each for a 2 klm return bus trip from the cafe to the start of the Gorge walk which is required so you don't walk through aboriginal lands. We have seen far more spectacular gorges with boulder filled creeks in other places without having to pay for the privilege.

Strangler Fig in Mossman Gorge

Lunch was held in Port Douglas at the marina overlooking the mountains and beaches north to the Daintree and Cape Tribulation - this is where we are headed tomorrow.

Lunch at Port Douglas

Port Douglas Lookout

Crossing the Daintree River

Next day, as expected, tomorrow had arrived and we were up early with a big day planned. We first travelled north to the Daintree River and bought a one way ticket for the barge crossing. Peering stealthily at the waters of the Daintree River we saw no croc eyes peering stealthily back at us. 

Cassowary road sign. Best graffitied road sign in Australia. 

Driving slowly along the thick rainforested roads through to Cape Tribulation we remained stealthily on the lookout for Cassowarys.  A car coming the other way had stopped ahead of us with its hazard lights flashing and there on the road in front of him was a Cassowary. It slowly walked into the dense rainforest and only allowed us to get a faint photo of it before it fully disappeared. If only I had known that to see a Cassowary all you had to do was put the hazard flashing lights on I would have done so years ago. 

After a quick visit to Cape Tribulation beach we started on the Bloomfield Track that travels about 80 klm north to Cooktown. Only about 30 klm is dirt now with the rest sealed. We were entertained by several water crossings, a very steep climb of 33 degrees over the range, and a beautiful morning tea stop beside a creek half way along. The track is definitely 4WD and definitely not suitable for caravans.

One of numerous water crossings on the Bloomfield Track

Morning tea stop - Bloomfield Track

On reaching the highway we headed north to Cooktown. Along the way we stopped at the very weird looking Black Mountain. Made of black granite boulders, it is very different from the mountains around it. To us it looked like the slate mine tailings we've seen in England.

Black Mountain

With all this excitement we were overdue for a coffee and lunch. Stopping in at a cafe in Cooktown we sat on the verandah overlooking the exact spot James Cook set foot on 18 June 1770.

Coffee with Cook's Monument

The wind I talked about earlier was still with us. In the morning before we arrived rain was 'falling' horizontally across the verandah we were sitting on. Now the winds only carry lots of dust. An interesting walk along the foreshore took us past monuments and statues of Cook, an excellent mural depicting the aboriginal history of the area and of course the boat harbour. Next we took a drive up to Cooks Lookout - but he was long gone. But not the wind unfortunately. We drove home the long way along the Mulligan Highway stopping in at a couple of lookouts along the way. 

Cook and the cook

Cook's Lookout

Arriving home we had our last "Gathering With Drinks (no food)" as the camp manager describes, it before getting ready for moving on tomorrow. The wind was still howling overnight but we are used to it now and sleep soundly.

Update: less than a week after we left this region it received in excess of 300mm of rain in two days. We wouldn't have been able to do the Bloomfield and other things due to the flooding.  We've definitely been very fortunate in missing any wet weather on this trip.

14 May 2016 - Moving Day. We set off south to Paronella Park located south-west of Innisfail.

Our Paronella Park campsite

In the 1920's Jose Paronella bought the 5 hectares and spent the next six years building his home and an amazing park with buildings, fountains, tennis courts and all manner of activities for the public to enjoy (for a fee). Located beside a waterfall on Mena Creek, Jose commissioned his own private hydroelectric generator to power the Park - very unique. The place was used for years by the public and WWII soldiers on leave. In the 1940's it was accidentally flooded by loggers who had dammed the creek upstream with their logs only to see it burst during heavy rain. It was too much for Jose to rebuild and the place went into disrepair.

The grand staircase

Feeding the tortoises

In the 1990's a couple bought the park and have again opened it up to the public. We stayed in the campground overnight and with our pass we did a guided day walk and a night guided walk. We were also free to wander this magnificent place ourselves at any time. It reminds us of ancient Inca ruins fighting off the invasion of the rainforest. It is well worth a visit. The entry fee also allows one nights free camping in the grounds.

The waterfall at Paronella Park

Next, just south of Mission Beach is a little place called Wongaling Beach where we set up for a few days. It has a great beach out front which we partook of when we were not out exploring the region. The van park is large and has huge (long) sites.

Wongaling beach walk

Kennedy walking track. Julie was confident it wasn't going to rain.

The local Kennedy Walking track at South Mission Beach amused us for the morning. What wasn't amusing was the showery weather that caused us to abort the walk but not before being attacked by ravenous mosquitoes. I'll be very surprised if we don't have Ross River fever by the end of this trip. 

It rained

Ulysses butterfly

After the aborted walk we jumped in the car and headed to Tully Gorge. Driving to the end of the road where the hydro power station is, we came across a flock of Ulysses butterflies feeding on lantana. Trying to get a decent photo of the spectacular butterflies kept us amused for ages.  Next we headed back down the gorge calling into a few spots from where white-water rafters launch. We had a chat to a bus driver who was following his rafts downstream. He said we were very fortunate today as there was an unusually high number of a wide variety of butterflies out.

Tully Gorge

Morning tea in Cardwell

Rollingstone Beach walk

17 May 2016 - Moving Day. Travelling further south we passed through Ingham towards Townsville. A road turns off left towards the coast and at the end of it is Rollingstone Beach Caravan Resort about 5 klm away from Rollingstone. The Resort is very big and very well designed on its greenfield site.  It was here we found ourselves with a front row van site overlooking the water. Once again we had a great walking beach right out front which filled in our days when we weren't out exploring. This van park is very popular with Townsvilleites just down the road. We were here mid-week and the place was relatively quiet. This is another place we would return to again if ever we travel this way.

Rollingstone Beach walk

Rollingstone Beach walk

So what do you do when at Rollingstone CVP? One reluctantly drags oneself away from the picturesque location and heads inland up into the hills behind one to visit Australia's highest single drop permanent waterfall - Wallaman Falls - at 268 metres.

Wallaman Falls

It is definitely worth the long drive up the narrow, steep and windy road. To round off a day of waterfalling we hiked up a picturesque track to visit Jourama Falls in the Paluma NP.

Jourama Falls

A 1.2 metre black snake was also visiting the falls and gave us a bit of a fright as it scurried off the track in front of us.

The day ended with a walk along the beach and drinkies overlooking the water. The weather was just perfect. 














Next day we again headed up into them thar hills behind us to do some more waterfalling. Little Crystal Creek is a popular day trip location and we could see why. It is just beautiful. It has many various sized swimming holes joined by clear flowing water cascading down waterfalls into them. A single arch stone bridge built by work for the dole participants during the Great Depression in the 1930's crosses the creek. Just a beautiful setting. The rest of the tour was to other waterfalls, lookouts and dams. Again the day was ended with a walk along the beach and drinkies watching the sunset while overlooking the water.

Lake Paluma

The Fridge: During this trip our fridge hasn't been working properly. The freezer has held okay and the fridge part was a little on the warm side. It would never get so cold as to need me to turn it back. Everything I tried, including blowing the dust out of the condenser and fridge cavity, defrosting it, turning it up flat out, turning it off for a little while then turning back on, made little difference. The fridge is a 12V compressor fridge like the ones we all have at home. It has always been so good. After numerous pokings around in the nether regions of the fridge, I eventually found what I believed to be the problem - the 12V fan connected to the condenser wasn't working. Our next stop is Townsville so I arranged to have the fridge looked at on the way to our Van Park.  

Sure enough the little fan had stopped working, the victim of too many dusty dirt roads over the past 3 and a half years. It was replaced with a computer cooling fan and immediately it was back to normal. I have included this little bit of information for you so should it ever happen to you, you will know what it is.

The Quartermaster has coped admirably with the less than desirable fridge temperatures despite the very hot external temperatures and has only had to throw out 1 half finished container of yoghurt and some leftover hummus. Don't worry though, we have enough in the freezer to get us home. 

Seems like a good place to end this Post. I'm getting significant pressure from my Editor/Publisher as well as many readers. I have been too busy doing the things that I write about that I don't the have time to write about the things that we have been doing.

Bye for now from beautiful North Queensland

JeffnJulie